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Halfway through, a manager sidled up to ladle some of that broth over the saddle and transform it into something even better.Minutes later, Rose himself appeared in black shirt and coal-colored apron to offer a splash of Oloroso sherry - a "chabrot" - to lend the broth a finishing kick.NEW YORK - The slender tapers are glowing bright over tables draped with linens laid upon linens.

But now with Le Coucou, Günter Seeger, and Le Coq Rico, it's suddenly the year of the French restaurant in New York. But Stephen ID'd that early." And a steep investment in outmoded niceties like candles and tablecloths (a $200,000-plus annual expense alone) did not deter.

"Stephen has a tolerance for risk and imagination unlike any other restaurateur I've met," said Rose, who has three small restaurants in Paris, including Chez La Vieille, an 18-seat boîte that Starr invested in, though he's yet to visit.

The chef has been channeling - and updating - the legendary French master Escoffier. Le Coucou in all its reimagined classic French glory is the talk of New York's dinerati right now, just crowned the best restaurant of 2016 by the New York Times and one of the best "of the century" by the New York Post. important, and from the heart." That hunger for critical praise over pure profit is surely part of Starr's motivation as he confesses that the "big-box restaurateur label used to make me crazy." But the significance of Le Coucou's early success goes beyond pure ego.

It's also one of the most unexpected creations yet from Philly's Stephen Starr, who, in the decade since opening supersized versions of Buddakan and Morimoto in Manhattan, has gone from "carpetbagger" status known for trendy megahits with mass appeal to a darling of New York's fine dining elite, along with partner and chef Daniel Rose. It confirms Starr's evolution on the country's biggest stage as a maturing restaurant visionary with a gift for spotting and showcasing talent in high-design settings.

Sole Véronique, sauced with vermouth and striped with tiny mushrooms and grapes, descends straight from the haute cuisine bible of Georges Auguste Escoffier.